Sunrise winter paddling Nov 25 2025

Three days ago it thawed and stormy weather crushed all the sea ice. The day after, the temperature dropped below zero again. This morning the weather was clear and calm at -12 °C. Time for another morning kayak tour, just like four days ago.

At 7:50 I stood on the leftovers of the old ice that covered the small bay. In front of me – a fresh layer of new ice. How thick may it be? I have the feeling it will not hold my weight.

You see the photo above? The kayak is tilted sideways. That’s not because of the waves or because I’m edging, but because the kayak is lying on the ice. The ice is stable enough to bear us with me sitting in the kayak. I move forward by using ice safety picks that I drive into the ice in front of me and then pull the kayak and myself forward. It’s exhausting, but it works. I have done it many times before. The ice is approximately 3 cm thick.

But then the ice gets thinner and has exactly the thickness I loathe: between 1.5 cm and 2 cm. Then the kayak breaks through and is jammed in a narrow water channel, where it’s almost impossible to use your paddle – no open water reachable – or the ice picks – the ice will break when pulling. Luckily the water channels often tend to widen, so you can kayak back some metres, get some forward momentum using the paddle and break another two metres of ice. That takes a lot of time and extends the distance paddled by a factor of four or more.

But then – finally – I reach open water by the island Lillskär. It took me almost half an hour for less than 300 metres!

Anyhow I manage to reach the sunrise in time. Now the surface of the sea is multicoloured. The back of the waves are reflecting the orange horizon, the front of the waves the blue sky above.

Now I just paddle a short round, because it is a weekday and I have to work. Just some more photos with my mobile phone in its waterproof bag …

Water to the left, thin ice to the right

… before I return home. First it is easy, because the channel that I had broken through the ice is open and I can easily follow it. Then the ice gets thicker again. I’m tired and since the water is pretty shallow I exit the kayak and walk the kayak home. I learn that the ice does not bear me at all. So I break it with my knees or – when deeper – with my rear. I would not dare to do this with my kayaking drysuit, but today I wear my survival suit made of thick neoprene, which is very sturdy.

I reach the shallow part of the bay where I manage to grab a large piece of ice and put it upright. Time to play a bit with the translucent motif in front of the sun.

It is two o’clock in the afternoon when I decide to take another break from my desk to watch the sunset. To make a long story short – I got it. No kayaks involved this time.

Tromsø—Obbola by car Nov 16 2025

You may know that I have two places to live. My “work home” in Tromsø, where I work at the Norwegian Polar Institute and my “home home” in Obbola near Umeå, where my wife Annika works and we have a house together. Mostly we use the train and the bus to travel, sometimes the plane and occasionally even the car, although it’s a long way.

It is early Friday morning, I’m in Tromsø. My car is packed and I’ve cleared last night’s snow. It is mid-November and the conditions are wintry.

Norway

I start the trip at 6:50. In Tromsø the weather is fair, but then I experience some heavy snow showers. When it’s dark the snowflakes seem to form a tunnel that looks a bit as if a spaceship in a science fiction film were going to warp drive. Some short passages have streetlights. That makes seeing the road much easier.

Around half past eight it is bright enough outside to see the landscape, not only a fraction of the road. It is still snowing, but driving is easy. Around 9:20 I reach the border to …

Finland

The snowfall has stopped but a lot of snow lies on the road. I guess up to 15 cm with some deep tracks of a few cars. After a while a snowplough approaches, but it is clearing the opposite lane. In Kilpisjärvi I make a stop at the supermarket and buy some breakfast. The rear of my car is plastered with snow.

I continue south and it is clearing up. Even the road is in much better shape now. Easy driving.

In the Finnish village Karesuvanto I turn right, cross the Muonio River and thus the border to …

Sweden

… where I arrive in Karesuando. I turn right again and join the E45 which ends in Gela, Italy. The sky is clear and the outside temperature dropped more and more. In Övre Soppero the display in the car shows -13 °C. It also shows a lot of warnings because the packed snow in front of the car is confusing the sensors for the cruise control. I feel tired and find a parking bay where I take a nap.

I sleep less than half an hour but I feel refreshed again. I continue my car trip to Vittangi and while I’m following the road see the slowest sunset I can remember. Perhaps, because I’m driving southwards?

In Töre, where I reach the E4 I fill up the car with fuel. From there it is not far to Råneå, where I visit friends and stay overnight. I’m asleep before 9 o’clock.

Still Sweden

After ten hours of sleep and breakfast I feel fit again to continue my car trip. The day before I made already two thirds of the distance and today I’m more or less only on the E4, so driving will be easy. To be honest, it’s a bit boring. That’s also because I’m leaving winter behind. There is less and less snow and it gets warmer. The good thing – the snow on the car has melted and the cruise control is working again.

Around 14:15 I pass Obbola and drive southwards to “home home”. No snow.

And then, after driving 966.8 km I am finally home home again. Here I’ll stay for about three weeks, then Annika and I will make the return trip to Tromsø together.

The route

Tromsø—Nordkjosbotn—Kilpisjärvi—Karesuvanto—Karesuando—Övre Soppero—Nedre Soppero—Vittangi—Tärendö—Överkalix—Töre—Råneå—Skellefteå—Umeå—Obbola

Scotland NC500 – day 8 – a hidden pass, palm trees, and a famous castle Nov 11 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-10: Northern Scotland”.

October 20

Today is the eighth day of our road trip in Northern Scotland, which my wife and I are taking together. Last night we slept in a hostel near Applecross. Now we want to take the road over Bealach na Bà pass, that is known for its hairpin bends and scenic views. Unfortunately it is still raining and the clouds are low. The beginning of the road is marked with several warning signs, but Annika can drive single track roads and we do not have wintry conditions, so we can take the road. But clouds we have. Soon we are in the middle of them. It is raining and the visibility is pretty bad. And so is the view of the hairpin turns from the top of the pass. Well, you cannot have everything.

We descend and slowly visibility improves. When we look back we can see the colourful mountain scenery with the summits in the clouds. In front of us we see the other clouds floating down to the sea loch Loch Kishorn, where they start hiding the coastal islands.

Two hours later we arrive in Plockton, a beautiful village by the sea. The climate is particularly mild, so that palm trees can grow here. An older chap I meet in the street tells me that he has different sorts of palms, a eucalyptus tree and other trees I never heard of in his garden.

It is low tide. Some fisher boats lie in the mud and it is possible to go to an island nearby. From the sandy tidal flat you can see the long row of houses by the seaside – sea view for everyone. We spend an hour and a half here to visit the craft fair, to go to the island, to pet a cat, to take photos and to find a geocache. A charming place with views of the sea, an island called Sgeir Bhuidhe, Duncraig Castle, hills, and steep mountains.

Finally we continue our tour. Next stop: Eilean Donan Castle. This castle is regarded one of the most photographed landmarks in Scotland, and it’s very popular with tourists. Visiting the interior costs money, and there’s even a charge to cross the bridge, so I take photos from the outside. It is not easy to take photos without too many tourists in the shot.

From Eilean Donan Castle it is not far to the An Spiris Accommodation at Dundreggan Rewilding Centre, our last overnight stay on our road trip. My highlight of the evening is the toddler in the large common room singing “Do-Re-Mi” from the Sound of Music.

November snowfall in Tromsø Nov 11 2025

When I came back from Scotland about three weeks ago snow had fallen in Tromsø. But temperatures went up again and more or less all the snow melted away, at least on Tromsøya. These photos I took on my way home five days ago.

It started snowing in the weekend and so it looked like, when I waited for the bus yesterday morning:

During the day another twenty centimetres of snow fell down and at 0:00 we had 29.7 cm of snow at the weather station. I however think, we have even more snow, where I live. Weather can be quite local in Tromsø.

This morning it had cleared up and temperatures were round -2 °C, when I went out for a walk. It takes only a couple of minutes, and you are in the nature of Tromsøya with its forests, bogs, lakes, and hiking paths. This way will soon become a ski trail, if the weather stays wintery.

Scotland NC500 – day 7 – a rainy day Nov 10 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-10: Northern Scotland”.

October 19

According to the weather forecast it will be pretty rainy in Northern Scotland the whole day. So, today we may interrupt our road trip less often than the other days. We will drive to AppleCross, where we’ve got a room in the Hartfield House Hostel & The Bunkhouse. If we arrive early, we may get a nap in the afternoon, which sounds tempting given the weather. We have breakfast in the hotel and take it easy. When we leave, it is half past ten. It is raining.

We make a stop at the visitor centre of the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. There’s a small museum and a cabin, from where you can spot birds. There are also lovely spots outdoors, but – it is raining.

Next stop: The lake Loch Clair, where I go for a short walk. I put on rubber boots, waterproof trousers and a rain anorak, because – it is raining. Annika prefers to stay inside the car to read. A smart choice, because the trail is just a rather dull gravel road and – did I mention it? – it is raining.

No noteworthy stops after that. We arrive at the bunkhouse at three o’clock. Beside the house there is a fenced in pasture with Scottish highland cattle. They look pretty soaked, but I guess, they are used to this kind of weather.

After an afternoon-nap (we got one!) we take a small car trip southwards. On the photos it looks like the weather has finally brightened up a bit.

But if you see a photo taken from inside the car you realise – it is raining.

Landscape – as seen from the inside of the car

One of the last photos I take today is of the seafront of Applecross.

As Google has already told us, the pub is closed. So we head back to the bunkhouse and have our dinner there.

When the rain comes, look for the light Sep 19 2025

Autumnal kayak trip to Grindøya Sep 11 2025

Fourteen kayaks at the beach on Grindøya

The end of high summer in Tromsø Aug 24 2025

One month ago was the last polar day in Tromsø, where the sun did not set at all. Now it gets dark again in the night. Rain clouds may help as well to make it darker and I got a lot of help from them, when I made an evening stroll through the forests nearby yesterday evening.

It was still light when I set off and it was raining. The big leaves of the wood cranesbill (Geranium sylvaticum) beside the forest paths had started to turn yellow.

The small, grass-covered bogs always look like autumn. The vegetation is just yellower and browner. Because of the recent rain they were pretty wet and partly covered with water.

There were still flowers in bloom, like the pink fireweed and the thistle in the next photo, but more and more it was the leaves bringing the colour—like the wood cranesbill, whose leaves turn a vivid red in autumn.

Red leave of the wood cranesbill (Geranium sylvaticum)

Most of the forest paths were mostly dry but some of them had turned into deep water puddles. Rubber boots came in handy.

Half past nine – it was getting darker. Now and then I caught a glimpse of city lights through the trees, but most of the time I was away from town—sometimes going cross-country through the forest, sometimes staying on the paths.

Another sign of autumn was starting to show. Various mushrooms have popped up beside the path. I don’t pick them—I haven’t got a clue about mushrooms—but I do enjoy spotting them.

When I came home at 22:20 my rain clothes were so soaking wet, that I hung them into the shower. Today was the first day after months, where I put on the electrical heating in the living room.

Just a pick-up at the station… – part II Jul 26 2025

< to part 1

Tuesday, 22 July

When I wake up early, the mountains and the sea have vanished. Thick fog surrounds our overnight stay Marmelkroken on the island Andøya. I take a walk through the wet grass to the bird observation place but beside of some seagulls and a lonely curlew that flies around there is nothing to see.

One hour later Annika and I sit inside enjoying our gorgeous breakfast. We get a table-side presentation of the dishes. More or less everything has been produced locally and we eat it all.

Then we head of. We want to catch the one o’clock ferry in Andenes that will bring us to the next island Senja, second largest in Norway (again, when we ignore Svalbard). The weather soon gets fair again, but around the mountains still some clouds are hanging.

Yesterday we took the western road, today we cross the boggy island to take the eastern one. On the way there we pass the village Å. There are several Norwegian places called Å, the most famous one is on the Lofoten. The next stop is the octagonal church in Dverberg.

A bit north near Myrset there is a huge area of peat mining. Andøya has large areas of peat bogs and parts of it has been drained to extract the peat. I climb on a hill of peat – it bounces like a water bed – to take some photos of this moonscape. Then I protect my camera lens, because each step emits a cloud of brown dust. But that’s nothing compared to the huge double-wheeled tractors anyhow that produce huge clouds of peat dust while driving. My car is brown now.

We take it easy, we have time – that’s what I thought. When we however arrive at the ferry terminal it becomes quite obvious that we would not join the next ferry. Too many cars are ahead of us waiting. So the one o’clock the ferry departs without us, leaving us behind but in a much better start position. Now we have to wait for four hours. Time to explore Andenes a bit.

As hoped and expected we find place on the next ferry. Now we are on the way north to Senja. Soon we are in open water, accompanied only by some sea birds.

The ferry trip takes one hour and forty minutes. Then we arrive in Gryllefjord on Senja.

Unfortunately we won’t catch the last ferry to Kvaløya today, they are not coordinated. We have to drive via the mainland – a large detour. Although it is another detour we decide to take the coastal route. 289 more kilometres to go which means a five hour drive in Norway. It is evening and we will make less breaks now.

Stop one – Tungeneset, a scenic rest area.

Stop two – another one of the many beautiful views on a fjord and the mountains on the other side. Here we see something special: a cloud waterfall. Clouds fall down a steep mountain range where they vanish in thin air. New clouds come from behind. The cloud waterfall is several kilometres broad and looks like a huge waterfall in slow motion. An impressive view.

(Note to the meteorologists: is this a orographic cloud spillover?)

We take the bridge from Silsand to Finnsnes. After two days we are on the Norwegian mainland again. Although it is still midnight sun season – the sun won’t set, it just moves lower and lower until it is hidden behind the mountain. I took the next photo at eleven o’clock in the evening.

At half past twelve we arrive home in Tromsø, my “work home”. Although it was only one evening and two days of travelling together it felt like real holidays.

We think about doing the same in half a year. I have to check the ferries, but it would be interesting to visit the same places in wintertime.

Just a pick-up at the station… Jul 26 2025

When Annika travelled to me last weekend, her train from Boden to Narvik was cancelled and the next and last train was heavily delayed. Unfortunately train problems have become common in Northern Sweden over the years. I had to use the airplane several times because trains didn’t run at all for days or it was impossible to buy tickets.

To keep Annika from being stranded, I drive to Narvik to fetch her. From Tromsø it takes me about three and a half hours plus some breaks.

Meanwhile Annika has booked a hostel in Bogen where we stay overnight. Our plan is not to drive back the direct route, but to visit the islands Andøya and Senja.

Monday, 21 July

The next morning starts sunny.

However it soon gets foggy. After crossing the Tjeldsund we are on Hinnøya, the largest Norwegian island (when we ignore Svalbard). We decide against a swim in the sea due to the fog and continue to Refsnes. From here go ferries cross the Gullesfjorden to Flesnes. On my trip to Narvik yesterday it was often 28 °C, now in the fog it is hardly 15 °C.

We have missed the 10 o’clock ferry, but they run hourly and we don’t have to wait for long. The journey itself takes only 20 minutes.

From Flesnes we continue to Risøyhamn. Hurtigruten travellers may know this place not only because it is one of the stops but also because of Risøyrenna – a man-made underwater channel that allows larger vessels to pass between Andøya and Hinnøya. The Hurtigruten ships has to go quite slow there.

We take the bridge over the Risøysundet and drive through Risøyhamn. Twice. Because I didn’t know that it is so small. Only round 200 people live there.

The weather is sunny again and we become more beach focussed. The first beach is for having lunch. We share it with a flock of sheep.

The second beach is for bathing. 16 °C in the water – surprisingly warm for the region.

We continue north. To the west the Norwegian Sea. Next shore westwards is Greenland, more than 1500 kilometres away. Our next stop is much closer: a public toilet at Bukkekjerka. But what a one! It is a designed block of concrete and mirrored glass. From the outside you cannot look in, but from the inside you can switch the huge glass windows between being transparent or opaque.

Around this place – a lighthouse on a peninsula, interesting looking rocks, a baaing sheep and of course the sea.

We follow the coastal road further north to Bleik. Here you can find beaches and turquoise water as well as ridiculously looking rock needles.

After refuelling my car in Andenes we drive south again to Marmelkroken, where we will stay overnight. With an additional photo stop.

To part 2 >

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