A gorgeous cross-country ski tour in Saariselkä Mar 1 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-02: Finnmark”.

After days of car driving through the Norwegian Finnmark we crossed borders to Finland two days ago. Yesterday we arrived in Saariselkä in the northernmost Finnish region “Lapland”. Saariselkä is a popular tourist destination, especially for cross-country skiers. So we decided to make a cross-country ski tour today despite of the grey and dull weather that the weather forecast showed us for the region.

After breakfast we took our skies, walked to the tent-like starting point and started skiing. Oh my – after using the broader “fjellski” a lot the thin cross-country skis felt like skiing on matches! I had some difficulties and blamed myself but then realised, that beside of my stiffness one of the skins – permanently glued to the ski – started to peel off. We abandoned the tour in hope to find someone that can fix this. So the first ski tour was just 1.17 km – yay!

We were extremely lucky. We soon found a ski rental and got the problem fixed within a minute. The employee even refused getting paid. Kiitos paljon! So – back to the starting point.

Meanwhile the weather that had been ignoring the forecast as usual started clearing up. Temperatures were around -8 to -9 °C and it was calm. Perfect skiing conditions, if you ask me. This time I felt a bit more comfortable.

We unmounted our skis at a short but uncomfortably steep passage, where the trail crossed a stream in a small valley. Last night’s fog had added rime to the snowy trees.

After this short obstacle the trail got easier and was extremely pleasant to ski on. Plus, the trail was perfectly prepared and the sky cleared up more and more. But let the photos speak for themselves:

Was it as empty as on the photos? Almost. There were a few other skiers, but not many.

After about 7 km we reached the first cabin – Rumakuru Päivätupa. We took just a short break and decided to continue to the next cabin – Luulampi, taking a break there. We passed Rumakuru Vanhatupa and after 4 km we arrived at the large cabin Luulampi.

My dreams of eating cake in the cabin were destroyed. The café was closed. So we skied to the small hut nearby were we took a lunch break. Annika grilled sausages in the fire, while I ate two Karelian pirogs. Then we shared some biscuits.

And then? Taking the more advanced ski trail that climbs at least 150 other metres, leading to the road and then hoping for a bus or a lift? Or just taking the same way back? We chose the latter.

As usual I took much less photos on the way back. One of the reasons: it had become cloudy and the sun had vanished. Now the landscape was more monochrome, but still very beautiful.

We passed the other cabins again, and again we unmounted our skis at the steep descend and ascend. And then, after some more descends we were back in town. Here there are a lot of people, that do not ski and you have to remind them, that ski tracks are – well – ski tracks and not open for pedestrians, cyclists or snowshoers. Mostly it helps …

“Skiers only, no matter what Google Map says”

I tracked today’s tour. The second and real tour was 21.95 km, which adds up to a total of a bit more than 23 km on cross-country skis. I guess, Annika and I will feel our muscles tomorrow. I feel them already now.

This was one of the finest cross-country ski tours I’ve made in the last years. Thank you, Annika for the tour!

Sametinget in Karasjok Feb 27 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-02: Finnmark”.

Sametinget – the Sámi Parliament of Norway is in Karasjok, where Annika and I stayed overnight last night. Yesterday we spent some time in the library and we were lucky to get a short private guided tour to the plenary hall. It was so interesting that we decided to join a longer guided tour today. We could not only visit this incredibly beautiful building (wow, what a workplace!) but also learn more about the parliament itself and ask some questions. Thank you, A. for your time.

Some photos from the inside:

Sametinget in Karasjok – plenary hall II

If anyone is interested and can understand Norwegian (or one of the Sámi languages), the parliament meetings are broadcasted on the website of the Sámi Parliament of Norway: sametinget.no

Finnmark birches Feb 26 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-02: Finnmark”.

Yesterday Annika and I continued our travel from Alta to Karasjok, part of the Norwegian Finnmark. I connect this landscape with birches and snowy hills. Especially by the rivers it often looks like this:

You may think, this looks quite desolate, but I love the simplicity landscape. I find it much less desolate than the wet and ice snow free meadows that we passed the day before. Sign of a winter that has been much too warm (and still is).

The lower parts by the sea are often free of snow – in the end of February!

The rivers however can be quite beautiful, when they are partly frozen and snowy and partly open. This is the river Kárášjohka where the road 92 crosses it.

Lyngen mountains Feb 25 2025

This article is part of the series “2025-02: Finnmark”.

Two days ago – Annika and I have started our journey through the Finnmark and Finnish Lapland. The first stop is in Breivikeidet, where we wait for the ferry to the Lyngen peninsula. Despite the pretty depressing weather forecast we get a bit of sun which makes the steep and rugged mountains of the Lyngen Alps looking even more impressive. Today I edited some of the photos, making them monochrome.

Skiing home from work Feb 19 2025

Finally it got more wintry the last days and especially today it snowed quite a lot. After work I took the bus to the lake Prestvannet where Annika and I met. From there we skied most of the way home and then walked the rest in the streets.

The skiing took quite some time because snow was warm and so sticky that it glued itself to the skis in thick layers again and again. Anyhow we enjoyed being outdoors and sharing this winter afternoon. It was the very first time that I used skis to get home after my work at the Norwegian Polar Institute, but definitely not the last time.

The church Grønnåsen Kirke – end of skiing

At home another outdoor activity awaited me: clearing snow in front of my apartment. 25 cm of fresh snow had fallen – surprisingly fluffy for the warm temperatures. Of course the snowplough passed after I had finished. Well, I’ll do that tomorrow …

This night more snow will come but then according to the forecast it will turn more and more into sleet and rain, because another warm period awaits us. Strange winter this year.

Back to winter … Feb 16 2025

The last days it got colder and new snow arrived. Now everything is white and wintry again. Alas, the next period with warm weather and rain is less than a week away, when the forecast is correct.

Some photos from a very short promenade to the ski jump – with active ongoing training – and Skihytta today.

Wretched, wet, windy winter weather Feb 11 2025

If you are like me and love white winters with a lot of snow and clear sky – stop reading. The weather in Tromsø the last weeks was mostly miserable. We had hardly any frost days and most precipitation came as rain. A lot of rain. And it was windy. Yes, we had winds.

There is still round about 45 cm of snow, but it is wet, icy and has a lot of holes. It’s ugly and hard to walk on.

So it looked like today when I was walking home from the bus stop Prestvannet:

Luckily it looks like that a colder period starts tomorrow and we even may get some fresh snow until the end of the week.

Strange clouds Feb 2 2025

When I woke up today at 7 o’clock half the sky was red. It was still dark enough for stars being visible and I considered whether this could be some strange sort of polar light.

When I walked to the ski jump it has become less dark and it was clear, that the colours come from the light of the sun rise (09:17 today). Anyhow there must have been some strange clouds up in the sky reflecting the light of a sun still being 8° below the horizon. Even the snowy mountains were crimson red.

When I took a hike with a friend on the frozen snow near Tønsvik my eyes caught another special cloud phenomenon. These pale clouds were colourful due to diffraction. The effect was weak and delicate and so the photo looks a bit boring. No reason to now show it anyhow ;-)

It is 8 o’clock. The sky is clear and I can see Mars, Jupiter, Moon and Venus in the starry sky. In the north there is a very faint polar light.Will it develop? I’ll check until I’ll go to sleep.

The sun is back in Tromsø Jan 22 2025

Today I saw the sun for the first time this year. Polar night in Tromsø has already ended one week ago but it always takes some days until it rises over the mountains. Yesterday it was cloudy but today was the day. Welcome back, sun.

This is a shot by mobile phone. I may have taken better photos with my small Sony camera but I forgot it in the office.

Night walk Jan 19 2025

Yes, yesterday afternoon the snow came back. And since I was awake at night and ten to fifteen centimetres of fresh snow covered the ground – the roads had already been cleared – I took a small night walk. Ski jump – the pond with the lifebuoy – the ski cabin and back. So much nicer (and easier to walk) than this weeks slippery roads.

(Photographers note: I edited this photo more than usual, made it black and white and then colourised it.)