27 August: Kungsleden day 8 – Nallo—Vistas (9 km)

This article is part of the series “2017-08: Kungsleden hike”.

Going to bed early, getting up early – the second morning in Nallo we beat a record. We woke up at six and started our tour already at half past seven. The snow has melted away the day before but the night had been cold and some smaller puddles were covered with ice needles.

This year it was easy to cross the watercourse behind the hut Nallostugan. Later on we would have to cross a bigger stream where Annika had to put on her sandals to cross that stream two years ago while I barely managed to cross it in rubber boots.

The first part of the way was still quite arctic and alpine with many rocks and frozen ponds …

… but with each meter in height we descended to Vistas, our next destination, the variety of plants grew. Soon Salix lapponum (downy willow), Empetrum nigrum (crowberry) and Betula nana (dwarf birch) were found again and finally birch trees as well, the first ones for days.

Downy willows like wet places. If you see a long line of them you can be sure that they grow along an alpine brook and if they cover a whole area it certainly will be very wet. Apropos wet – we all managed to cross the river by stepping from stone to stone. Wading was unnecessary. Even if many parts of the trail have been quite muddy this year the water level had been generally low.

This tour was the shortest and easiest of the whole Kungsleden and we used the sunny weather to make a longer rest with lots of chocolate. We would buy new chocolate in Vistas.

The first building we could see was the new Sauna, which is sponsored of a gentlemen’s club called “Fjällrävarna”. Shortly after that the other buildings of Vistasstugan came into sight. We already arrived at 12 o’clock and would have been there even earlier, if we hadn’t been hold up by blueberries …

When we arrived we were alone. D., the German stugvärd left a note that he was hiking and would come back round 4 o’clock. Guests should just choose a bed. So did we. Then we took some items from the self-service shop, put ourselves on the outside stairs of the hut and enjoyed sun. After that we made pancakes with bluebe …

Oh well, the blueberries! I almost forgot them. We hadn’t found many eatable blueberries yet. Many of them were still small and green, probably due to the cold winter, and most blue ones we found turned out to be tasteless or sour. Until today, when we found another field of blueberries on our way to Vistas. This time they were ripe and aromatic. First we ate one or two, then some more. Then we dropped our backpacks and ate some more. Then we dropped ourselves on the ground to collect these tasty berries (and eat some more). It didn’t take long to fill a whole box and some hours later we got a delicious dinner:

Pancakes with fresh blueberries, sugar and cinnamon. They tasted extremely well and it was hardly imaginable, that the pancake dough had been just a powder in Annika’s backpack. Did I mention, that the blueberry garnished pancakes were delicious? I did? Well, you think a lot about food when hiking …

Our dinner was less special: Swedish meatballs in cream with mashed potatoes. It was tasty anyway but not very photogenic. I prefer to show the cans instead of the meal:

Stugvärd D. asked us if he should wake us for polar lights and we accepted gladly. He woke us round 22:30, when it was still dusky. Indeed there were polar lights on the sky, but they were quite weak and hardly spottable. I stayed up another two hours, glad to have a down vest with me, since the temperature already had reached freezing point. The aurora however continued to be weak most of the time. Anyway it was a pleasure to watch. And the stars, the many stars! It was months ago, that it was dark enough to experience such a starry night. At one o’clock I fell into my bed. Another great tour day and the sunniest one yet.

6 comments to “27 August: Kungsleden day 8 – Nallo—Vistas (9 km)”

  1. Annika 2017-09-10 10:08

    War es sonniger als Kaitum-Singi? Das hatte ich als sonnigsten Tag abgespeichert.
    Schöne Bilder. Wie immer ;-)

  2. way-up-north 2017-09-10 10:13

    Stimmt, Annika, der war auch sonnig. Hatte ich schon wieder vergessen.

  3. German stugvärd D. 2017-10-06 15:00

    Wie ich sehe, hattet Ihr noch einige schöne Tage bis Abisko.
    Schöne Bilder, vor allem Stuor Reaiddavagge mit Schnee und Eis ist spannend zu sehen!

  4. way-up-north 2017-10-07 07:49

    Ja, wir hatten – trotz, oder vielleicht auch gerade wegen des wechselhaften Wetters – eine schöne Tour.

    Hattest Du eine gute Zeit auf Vistas?

  5. German stugvärd D 2017-11-22 19:56

    Späte Antwort, sorry!

    Ja, es war eine sehr tolle Zeit.
    Viele Gäste mit interessanten Geschichten, noch ein paar sehr schöne Nordlichter, und die Herbstfarben im Vistasvagge waren atemberaubend.

  6. way-up-north 2017-11-22 20:11

    Das glaube ich. Ich wäre auch lieber zwei Wochen später gewandert, aber das passte leider nicht. Aber Schnee auf Nallo war auch schön!

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