From Å to Rystad

This article is part of the series “2015-07: Lofoten and Vesterålen”.

Day 2

Next morning when we woke up in Å we could see blue sky through the fogged car windows. The rain has stopped. We made a walk through the little fishing village and had breakfast on the cliff with a fantastic view on the mountains and the sea.

After that we continued our trip through the incredible landscape of the Lofoten. We had to stop several times to take pictures, for example of this small mountain lake near the road to Nusfjord:

Later we came to a place that became quite famous over the years: Uttakleiv – a beautiful sandy beach that just invites you to jump into the turquoise-coloured water. It almost looks Caribbean but as soon as you enter the ice cold water you’re reminded of being in Northern Norway, not in the south. The bath was fun, anyway.

Here we stayed for a while and enjoyed the sun. But after a while we continued our road trip to Brenna on the island Austvågøy. We didn’t find a camping ground at the end of the road and turned, but soon we stopped the car again. Actually because I wanted to take pictures of the sheep that lay at the sandy beach, but some children nearby discovered something much more interesting: A fox cub. I changed to the telephoto lens and I came quite near. Probably the fox hadn’t made any bad experiences with humans yet.

After that we stopped at a camping ground near Rystad that we already saw on the way to Brenna and decided to stay overnight. Soon the tent was put up on the grassy ground. Slowly the sun went round the mountains and sank down. The next hours were incredible – the light was so wonderful, both the sunlit main land in the south and the sea in the north glowed in the most fantastic colours. But have a look by yourself:

Round one o’clock we lay down in our tent, but only because clouds came and it started to rain a bit. What a wonderful first day on the Lofoten!

On the way to Å

This article is part of the series “2015-07: Lofoten and Vesterålen”.

Day one

Å is not only the last letter of the Norwegian alphabet, it’s the name of some places, too. The probably most known  is Å i Lofoten, the southmost village of the Lofoten islands.

Delle, a German friend of mine and I started the tour last Saturday. The only plan was to take the car, drive to Bodø and take a ferry to the Lofoten islands, the same day or the other day.

The weather in Skelleftehamn was fine but in Arjeplog, where we made a lunch break it started to rain. We continued our trip to Bodø over the mountains. They were wrapped in clouds and were still partly covered with snow.

17:30 we arrived in Bodø, just in time to get the ferry to Moskenes on the Lofoten. Normally I love to be outside all the time when I’m on a ship but this time the sky was so grey that you hardly could see anything. The Lofoten with its more than 1200 meter high mountains came in sight just some minutes before we arrived.

We left the ferry with Delle’s car and drove the 5 km to Å, where it rained so much, that we decided not to put up our tent but to sleep in the car. I put on my rain cloth and made a short evening walk but soon returned to the car. The only pictures I made that evening were the fish heads on the wooden racks drying in the salty wind.

A hike and three tests

Do you remember Nokia? Cell phones and rubber boots? Today I tested a quite similar combination: Rubber boots and a Nikon lens. Plus a hiking trail.

A few weeks ago I discovered a big information board at a forest edge in Skelleftehamn. It describes the “kraftleden”The force trail or The energy trail. Perhaps the trail is named after Skellefteå Kraft, one of the sponsors I thought when I read the information.

Today I decided to try to hike the 18km long trail. I had two new things with me: My new rubber boots Tretorn Sarek which are made for hiking and my new lens Nikon 100mm f/2.8 (Series E), that I bought secondhand some days ago.

After a one kilometer walk I was at the starting point.

At the first junction I was lost, since I couldn’t see a sign. But after checking my photos of the information board I learned that the way marks where orange coloured blazes round the trees. That’s easy. The trail itself however wasn’t easy at all. It looked more like an area where you cut down trees and bushes. Like a stork I stalked through the cut down branches and twigs that lay criss-cross on this so-called trail hoping for a better path.

And the trail got better. But I still was slow. This time not because of the trail but of my new lens. It’s my first lens ever without an autofocus. This means that I have to focus manually at the lens itself. It took some time until I got used to it, but I still had to control every single shot on the display and I had to make some photos five times until I was satisfied.

I continued the trail – now a nice stony path until I came to the Örberget – altitude 40 meters, 30 meters higher than the starting point. It doesn’t take much to be called a mountain here. I made a photo of a “gravröse”, a tomb from the Bronze Age. Probably it was build at the shore some thousand years ago but the land has been rising round a centimeter a year since then.

I continued the walk. The ground became wet and muddy and after a while I stood in front of a bog. In the middle of the bog I saw a wooden post with an orange blaze. OK, let’s go …

… now I knew, that the new rubber boots were not only comfortable but really waterproof. I didn’t get soaked, but it was quite close.

I always had to look down carefully to avoid the deep water and mud puddles, and I had to look forward to find my way. When I looked up I started to suspect why the trail was called kraftleden. Almost the whole trail followed the transmission lines and the Swedish word for transmission lines is kraftledning. That’s a really pragmatic approach to make a trail since some kind of path was made already to mount the power poles. But it’s not very inspiring just following the lines and not beautiful neither.

After round 11 kilometers I made a rest on a high seat normally used for hunting moose.

I continued the tour but I started to lose interest a bit. Parts of the way were hard to walk, harder than many mountain trails but without the reward of a beautiful landscape or great views. In addition of that I started the tour round half past two and I didn’t want to come to town too late. So I left the kraftleden and walked southwards through the forest. At the beginning I found some nice flowers and I changed the lens to a macro. First two additional test images of the new 100mm lens, then two flowers – a dactylorhiza maculata and a linnaea borealis:

OK, I have to admit: I tested four different things, not only three. Number four was a mosquito protection jacket, that came in quiet handy when I shot the macros of the flowers. Flocks of mosquitos darted for my blood, but they didn’t had a chance beside of biting into my unprotected hands.

After taking the flower images I had to walk some other kilometers until I came to the main road and another one to come to the bus station where I had to wait half an hour for the next bus. Happily I slipped of my rubber boots to try my socks, sat down and waited. Finally the bus came and half an hour later I was home. The GPS displayed:

19.0 kilometers · average when moving: 4.3 km/h · total average: 3.3 km/h

And here come todays test candidates:

Rubber boots Tretorn Sarek: Really nice and comfortable boots, perhaps a nuance too tight for me. They are made of natural rubber and it’s easy to turn the upper upside down. They could be a bit higher.

For me: 8 points out of 10.

Nikon 100mm f/2.8 (Series E): A small, lightweight lens with manual focus. I have to practise focussing. I prefer my huge Nikon 70-200mm VR II, but there’s a reason why I bought the former one: At the end of August I’ll start a two week hiking tour in the Scandinavian mountains and I want to save weight. The 70-200 weights more than 1500 gram, the new 100mm only 215 gram. Got the point? And it was cheap, too – only 53 Euros.

For me: 7 points out of 10.

The trail kraftleden: The only advantage of the trail is that you avoid navigation. Beside of that it’s an awkward combination of a trail a bit too hard to be nice and a bit too boring to be beautiful. I wouldn’t recommend it. If you want to give it a try, take high rubber boots and plenty of time with you. Take care and follow the way marks if you don’t want to end in almost knee deep mud as it happened to me today.

For me: 3 points out of 10.

The nameless mosquito jacket: Perhaps it’s not fun to walk within some kind of mosquito net but it was great, when I took the macro photos of the flowers. The hood is too big. Since it’s very light – only 214 gram – I will take it with me on all summer photo tours and perhaps even on the planned mountain hike. And with costing only 18 Euros it was a bargain, too.

For me: 6 points out of 10.

Translations:

EnglishGermanSwedish
Dactylorhiza maculata / heath spotted-orchid / moorland spotted orchidGeflecktes KnabenkrautFläcknycklar
linnaea borealisMoosglöckchenLinnea
upperSchaft (am Schuh)skaft

Umiak I

It started like many kayak trips: I put out to sea at the tiny beach Storgrundet without any plans at all. Unlike yesterdays weather forecast it was a nice and sunny day, although not very warm. Since the sea was calm I paddeled along the seaward sides of the islands Storgrundet and Brottören, crossed the Bredskärsviken to the islands Norrskär and Bredskär, continued at the east side of Flottgrundet and headed to Gåsören, probably my favourite island nearby. Some photos:

But much more fascinating than nature, birds and islands was the moment when I looked at the horizon and saw the faint but large silhouette of a big ship. The blurred outline looked more like a fata morgana than a real object. But I wasn’t the only one watching the ship. Two tugboats came from the port to bring the ship into port.

T., whom I met on the Island Gåsören knew the ship. It’s Umiak I, an ice breaker, that can break 1.5 meter ice and still going 6 knots (ca. 11 km/h). Impressing! I do like summer, but I really adore winter and started dreaming of travelling with the Umiak I in winter and cutting through solid ice.

Later today I made a better image of the ship in port.

It’s at least so famous, that it has its own Wikipedia page! I looked at Shorelink as well, to get some more information:

  • Cargo: 9257 tons copper concentrate
  • Coming from: Edwards Cove via Brunsbuttel

Of course I had to look up Edwards Cove, too. Never heard the name before. If the internet is right, Edwards Cove is a harbour west-northwest from Nain in Labrador, Arctic Canada. If the ship would go back the same way, I guess I would ask for a lift.

Links:

Storberget

Storberget – “The big mountain!” A bit more than 90 meters high, which sounds completely ridiculous, if you live in Norway, near the alps or another place that has real, big mountains. But Storberget is a mountain, too, with a lot of rocks, a small ravine and a view on the near Baltic Sea and some islands. And it’s near, just fifteen minutes by car and a walk through the forest.

Midsommer colours

Finally it’s summery and warm in Västerbotten! Yesterday the car thermometer showed  20 °C for the first time this year, if only for two seconds. All people were out yesterday to celebrate midsommar. All mosquitos were out as well; there are a lot of them this year because of the wet May. Today I didn’t drive the direct way home but took some detours. It’s like loading the batteries with fresh colours and save them for the winter to come. The photos below are all taken in Kvarnbyn, a nice village near Burträsk.

Just beautiful!

Almost like summer

For me it’s not the warmth, that makes a Swedish summer, it’s the colours! Blue sky, green birch trees and meadows with yellow flowers – dry ones with dandelions or very wet ones with marsh-marigold – both are just beautiful.

Translations:

EnglishGerman
DandelionLöwenzahn
Marsh-marigoldSumpfdotterblume

Dreaming in cardinal directions

I love the … east, west, north and the south of you

Cole Porter in “All of you”

I love the winter and therefore the North, that’s why I called my blog way-up-north. But there may be other nice directions as well, as for example south, east or west. Today I’ll invite you to accompany me on two journeys. Virtually and right now! We’ll travel round 57000 kilometres in total, but don’t be afraid, it won’t take long.

Let’s start with the longer journey:

Longitudinal journey – ca. 40000 km

Let’s start in Skelleftehamn, where I live. We enter our magic flying carpet and just head south. Already 44 km later we leave Sweden, cross the Baltic Sea and enter Finland. We traverse the Baltic Sea again, next countries are Latvia, Lithuania and the Kaliningrad Oblast, with is part of Russia. Remember? We fly south, not east! Next countries are Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, Kosovo, Macedonia and Greece. Skelleftehamn is quite an eastern place, countries like Denmark, Germany or even the Czech Republic are more in the west.

Time to undress the jacket, we’re crossing the Mediterranean Sea. Soon Africa is within sight and we fly over Libya, Chad, the Central African Republic and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, where we cross the equator. Next countries are Angola, Namibia, Botswana and South Africa, where we leave the African continent at a nice sandy beach.

Time for the jacket again, we’re continuing the journey south. I hope, you love water, because it takes us almost 4000 km flight until we reach the next continent: Antarctica. I hope you brought your warmest jacket, the flying carpet has no heating. 2250 km later: The South Pole!

Antarctica is one of my dream destinations and I would love to travel to this place. But this is probably the most expensive of my travel dreams and I’m not sure if the dream will come true some day.

The flying carpet doesn’t stop, it just continues straight ahead. It flew south on the longitude 21°15′ E, now it heads north on 158°45′ W bringing us back on the other side of the Earth. We are still over Antarctica and fly another 1300 km until we are over the sea again. I really hope, you love water, you will see a lot of now. We reach the equator again without traversing a single island! Later we fly cross Hawaii between the Islands Kaua’i and O’ahu, but still only water under our flying carpet.

It takes us almost 15000 kilometers from Antarctica until we finally reached land again: Mitrofania Island, part of the Aleuten, part of Alaska, part of the USA. Our flying carpet doesn’t stop – we just traverse Alaska heading north until we reach the Beaufort Sea. Now we’re over open sea again, probably partly frozen and we reach the North Pole.

That was the only mainlands on the other side of the earth: Antarctica and Alaska, that’s all! Now the flying carpet has its original heading again: south on longitude 21°15′ E. To my big delight we’re traversing Svalbard.

Svalbard is another of my dream destinations but there are a lot of polar bears around. You should (a) know how to avoid them and (b) be able to use a weapon. I neither know (a) or can (b), so it’s probably a more future destination for me.

We leave Svalbard continuing our flight south. Soon mainland is in sight and we enter Norway, Finland and finally Sweden. After a while we see a minor town at the seaside and a green painted house surrounded by grass that is in the urgent need of being cut.

We’re home again in Skelleftehamn. Time to take a short break until we’ll start the other journey. You’re invited to follow, it’s shorter than the first:

Latitudinal journey – ca. 17000 km

I throw a coin, will we head east or west? The coin says: “East!”. OK, let’s enter our magic flying carpet again and start.

After 1500 meters we reach the Baltic Sea and after that Finland. I hope you can read cyrillic, the next country is Russia and it’s huge! It will take us round 7000 kilometers flight just traversing Russia. The last parts of Russia that we cross are the Sakha Republic (also known as Yakutia) and Chukotka Autonomous Okrug.

Yakutia is another dream destination. As a fan of cold weather I must travel to Oymyakon, probably the coldest inhabited place on earth, one day. But I’ll be disappointed if I won’t experience at least -55 °C, -60 °C.

The flying carpet continues and soon we’re over the North American Continent, first Alaska, USA, then Canada. In Canada we hardly see any people, just some Inuit, since we’re in the Canadian Arctic that has a much extremer climate than Sweden. The last part of Canada we traverse before the Arctic Ocean is Baffin Island.

I’ve never been in Canada and I definitely want to travel there, both in Autumn and in Winter. There are many places that are interesting to me, amongst others Nunavut and Labrador, but some towns as well.

The next mainland: Greenland.

Greenland, another dream destination, probably in wintertime.

The next mainland: Iceland.

Iceland, yet another dream destination, too, in all seasons! I need a sponsor!

The next land is better known to me: Norway. Always extremely beautiful and not too far from my home. But the flying carpet flies on,  crossing the Norwegian-Swedish border, flying over the fjäll, the forests of the inland, the town Skellefteå and finally lands gently on the grass of my backyard. Home again!

Thank you for following me on theses journeys. It was fun, wasn’t it? What were your dream destinations on these trips? I’m looking forward to your comments!